Pleated Insets | Domestic Lady's Dressmaker

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Drafting the Late Victorian Era Bodice (1880-1900)

Starting out

Overview
Supplies needed

Measurements

Measuring For a Pattern
Bust, Waist, Hip
Torso fitting measurements
Arm, Sleeve and Armscye
Neck measurements
Skirt

"The Look" of Bodices 1876-1899

Overview of Bodice styles
1876-1881
1881-1885
1884-1888
1887-1889
1889-1893
1893-1898
1897-1899
Extant Patterns and Cutting Guides

Drafting the Basic Sloper Frame

Gathering your supplies and overview
The Basic Frame
Basic Frame -Page 2
Seamline Placements
Alternate Seamlines for Larger Busts (greater than 45")
Alternate Seamlines for 1876-1881
Bust Darts when the Bust is less than 3" larger than waist.
Fitting the Bodice Sloper to Waist measurements
Drawing the Hip Flare
Adjusting the Front Armscye/Bust dart for Larger Cup Sizes

Making Your Master Pattern

Creating Pattern Pieces
Adding Seam Allowances

Making Your Muslin

Cutting out the Muslin
Sewing the Muslin Together

Creating the Perfect Fit with Your Muslin

Important Notes on Fitting
Adjustments- Sloping Shoulders
Adjustments- Square Shoulders
Adjustments- Side Back Seams
Adjustments- Armscye issues
Adjustments- Neckline
Other Adjustments
Creating your Perfect Fit Sloper from Your Muslin

Patterning the Sleeve

Drafting the Basic Sleeve Frame
Sleeve Frame Page 2
Your Sleeve Pattern
The High Sleeve
Short Sleeves for Ballgowns
Adding Cuffs

Adapting your Sloper to Copy a Style

Bottom Bodice line
More "Bottom Lines"
Necklines
Inserting pleated sections
Lapels
Gathered, Tucked,and Shirred Design elements
Pleated Insets
Flared Bottoms
Shaped and Tabbed Bottoms
Overlay
False Jacket
Asymmetrical designs
Princess Cut Dresses

Patterning Collars

Basic Collar Drafting instructions
Roll Collar
Military or Mandarin collar
Standup Collar
Ruffle Collar

Allowing for Closures

Closures

Choosing Materials

choosing fabric
Fabric Sources
Special fabric considerations

Historically Correct Construction

Bias (0:54)
Linings
Front Facings
Sleeve Facings/Finishes
Bodice Bottom facings/finishes
Seam Finishes
Boning
Collar Finishes

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Pleated Insets

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